tasting this week: Anna Maria Abonna Dolcetto and Branko Pinot Grigio

This Week:
Anna Maria Abbona
Dolcetto Dogliani
“Sori dij But”
$19.99

If you are one of those that loved Abonna’s “Maioli” vineyard wine made from 70 year old single vineyard vines, then you will admire this bottling as well. Currently, “Maioli” is out of vintage, with the new one arriving after the new year. So enjoy this offering while it lasts! ‘Sori’ is Piedmontese dialect for the sunny south face of a hill. ‘But’ or Butti is the name of the hamlet where Anna Maria and her husband Franco’s house and cellar are, a stunning spot in a very beautiful area.
This is classic Dogliani Dolcetto, fermented and aged in stainless steel. It shows great color, reddish purple and violet-tinged, aromas of blueberries and tealeaf, and some tea tannins to go with the abundant fruit on the palate. Dolcetto is one of the best table wines I know; so grill some lambchops, pour everyone a glass, and all will be right with the world.

DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI “SORÌ DIJ BUT”

TENDRIL Dolcetto 100%
VINEYARD 3 Ha of different vineyards combined, all Guyot
SOIL tuff and calcareous marne
ALTITUDE 500 – 530 m sea- level
EXPOSURE east/south/west
YELD PER HECTARE 70 – 75 Q. /Ha
HARVEST end of September
VINIFICATION traditional in stainless steel tanks with 6/8 days maceration
MALOLACTIC in steel
REFINING in steel
BOTTLING in June, the year after the harvest, without filtering
N. BOTTLES 20.000 – 25.000
“SORÌ DIJ BUT” is the more classic Dolcetto di Dogliani: obtained by
assembling several vineyards of different ages and exposures………
Very fruity on the nose with scents of plum and raspberry, intense
and full-bodied in the mouth, delicate, with good tannin and a slight
taste of almonds. It’s vinified in steel, bottled the summer next the
harvest and drunk in two/three years.
It’s the wine that, following the tradition, goes well with the entire
meal.

WINE and TENDRILS
It’s a very demanding tendril that can express itself at its best only within a specific environments.
The tendril comes from a native stamp selected in the late Middle Ages over the high Langa and has been widespread especially in the Tanaro river valley where he found the most suitable conditions. The name Dolcetto comes from the sweetness of the fruit that has been used since ages ago for therapeutic and restorative treatments. In point of fact it’s a tendril with an enoic vocation that gives wines of an intense purple colour, with fruity fragrances and complex fleshy flavour. This extremely versatile tendril expresses organolectic differences in accordance with the land in which it vegetates.
It’s a gentle tendril but it’s not fragile: noble, extremely sensitive to the change of the soil composition and the climate.
The most perfumed Dolcetto grows on white chalky of medium mixture, well drained soils.
The best climate is on a hill of good altitude where ventilation and thermal excursions ensure and healthy and fresh environment.

And from Friuli in the Collio:
Branko Pinot Grigio
Highly acclaimed, 3 glass award winner in the gambero rosso italian journal
Regularly $28.99
now $25.99
This is the perfect cold weather white if there is one–has almost a burgundian toastiness

Igor Erzetic, owner of Branko, is an extremely dedicated individual who farms his six hectares of vineyards in the Collio DOC with such passion and grace that his wines are frequent contenders at Gambero Rosso’s Three Glass finals. Once again, this year Igor’s Pinot Grigio 2007 garnered the prestigious ‘tre bicchieri’ award for the third vintage running and it is now considered one of the most ultimate expressions of the varietal. Who can argue with a record as such and I have to admit that I find the Branko Pinot Grigio possesses a profound depth of fruit and structure that is often times fleeting in this somewhat pedestrian varietal. Igor’s father, Branko, persists tirelessly in the vineyards and with his son’s mastery of the cellar; the pair is unstoppable. Interestingly, the fermentation of this bottling is divided between 80% stainless steel tank and 20% 500 litre French wooden barrels, both undergoing a 7-month aging process. The combination is magical and Igor creates an olfactory synergy with ever sip. From aromas of roasted hazelnuts, spiced fruits and resin, this wine has an inviting and warm palate of full-bodied citrus inspired fruits and a Chardonnay-like viscosity. The complexity of this white permeates the senses and its soft yet refreshing finish lingers mysteriously on the palate. Perhaps it is the northern hills of Collio, nestled against the Yugoslavian border that give this wine its unique and impressive character or maybe it is the delicate hand of winemaker Igor. Whatever the reason, this white will make any apathetic Pinot Grigio drinker a true convert! Wine snobs beware for Pinot Grigio may be the most underrated grape around…

Reminder! David Raines tasting Tomorrow, Saturday, October 3 from 1-3 PM

Lunenburg, Mass. importer David Raines will pour 3 wines from Piemonte, one of which includes the 2008 vintage of Orsolani Erbaluce di Caluso. The other two are reds and could be from such famous places as Barbaresco, Alba, or Dogliani– Stop by to find out!

2008 Orsolani Erbaluce di Caluso La Rustìa

Erbaluce is a white grape grown almost exclusively in and around the township of Caluso in the Canavese hills of eastern Piemonte. Often called Greco in limited plantings near Ghemme and Gattinara, east of Caluso, and thought to be a relative of the Fiano grape variety found in Central and Southern Italy, The grape makes for a remarkably fresh, balanced white, a perfect pairing for asparagus, winemaker Gian Luigi Orsolani tells us. He calls this Erbaluce di Caluso “La Rustìa”, a dialectal reference to the “roasted” slopes where the grapes are grown (as in the place name/appellation Côte Rotie, which denotes “roasted slope,” the ideal exposure of these vineyards allows the grapes to achieve remarkable richness).

Wine tasting Friday, October 2, 2009:

This Week:
Cannonau from Gallura on the island of Sardinia
from the stellar Cantine Sociale Gallura

The Cantina Sociale Gallura is located in the town of Tempio Pausania on the foothills of Mount Limbara. This cooperative was founded in 1956 and it currently has 160 producers contributing their grapes. The total area of planted vineyards is about 600 acres. The soil, a mix of sand and rock, is poor, and the vines have to struggle to survive this hostile environment. The limited grape yield offers unique and prized qualities. Most of the properties are planted with Vermentino, Nebbiolo and Moscato varietals. Origin and historical notes: The dazzling whiteness of granite shaped into an impressive bestiary of megalithic proportions by the North wind, verdant imposing blood-red cork-oaks, transparent abysses of the purity of crystal It is the Land of Gallura, a name which echoes the term “Gallo” (Rooster) of the Pisan coat of arms of the Visconti family, first lords of the Giudicato. Since 1956 the term “Gallo” embodies the esteemed wines of the Gallura wine producing coopertives.

At the foothills of Mount Limbara grapes of exclusive “Gallurese” origin are gathered to produce a wide range of DOC wines that find in vermentino, recently awarded the DOCG (Denomination of controlled and guaranteed denomination of origin) trademark,the highest expression of quality. Although there is no absolute certainty, everything points to on the origin of the vine being the Iberian Peninsula, specifically Spain (Puliat 1888). The vine at first arrived on Corsica around 1300, courtesy of the intense commercial exchanges (between Spain and the islands of the western Mediterranean, under the Aragonese reign). The vine was later brought to Liguria (sometime between the fourteenth and the eighteenth century, during Genoa’s long dominance of that region of Italy). According to the connoisseur Levadoux, this hypothesis which explains why the vine, which is called “Vermentino” in Liguria, also took root in Corsica under the name of “Malvasia.” The same vine established itself on the island of Sardinia around 1400, when it was brought either from Corsica or Liguria.

Cantina di Gallura, Cannonau di Sardegna “Templum”
$19.99
(bottom row, center.)  These are all the wines produced by different hands at the Cantina. Most are some of the best representations of their respected grapes on the island!

The origins of the Cannonau grape are unknown. The general belief is that it appeared on the Italian island of Sardinia in the 14th century, brought from Spain, during a period of Spanish domination of the island, and that it is either the canonazo grape of Seville or the granaxa grape of Aragon. There is also a belief (also unsubstantiated) that the cannonau grape is actually grenache! However it got there, canonau vines acclimated quickly to Sardinia, spreading thorughout the island and now making up over 20 per cent of the island’s grape vine plantings.

Despite the vast plantings of cannonau, the wine is produced in relatively limited quantity. This is so because of what is known as short-pruning, a system of training the vines that drastically curtails fruit production.

Region: Sardegna
Production Area: Valley of San Leonardo, townships of Luras and Calangianus, in the province of Olbia-Tempio.
Appellation: Cannonau di Sardegna DOC
Vintage: 2007
Varietal Blend: 100% Cannonau
Vineyard: Mostly at 1000 feet above sea level on a western and south western exposure.
Planting System: Guyot.
Soil: Granite soils of limited depth, rich in skeleton consisting of loose coarse granite rocks and sand.
Harvest: Early October.
Yield: About 2.8 tons per acre
Alcohol: 13.%
Vinification: It ferments for 8-10 days in stainless steel tanks with 4/5 daily pump-overs
Aging:  Not more than a couple of months in stainless steel tanks before bottling.

Tasting Notes: Ruby red color with purple hues. Aromas of fresh violet and fine spices. The acidity is bright. Hints at ripe black fruits on the palate with good balance of acidity and tannins. Medium finish.

Food Pairings: Appetizers, red meats, game, Sardinian Pecorino cheese.

And…

from Austria, not Australia
comes the tasting of the new vintage of
Kurt Angerer’s
Gruner Veltliner “Kies” 2008
$17.99

Read the story in the L.A. Times this last August
http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-wow8-2009apr08,0,4236798.story
The wine growing estate of Kurt Angerer is a family business and has a tradition of 150 years.  Located in the Kamptal region the vines have south and southwestern exposure protecting them from the rough north winds.  Due to Kurt Angerer’s lack of compromise and commitment to high quality, both in the vineyards as well as during vinification the wines are considered some of the best in Kamptal.  Angerer feels strongly attached to tradition and his vineyard “terroir” which is evident in the names he has chosen for his different wines: Kies (gravel), Spies, Loam ( Loess)  and Eichenstaude.

Grüner Veltliner is the most planted grape in Austria, and is what much of the revolution in Austrian wine is based on.  Its flavors vary greatly from place to place, but in general, it has characters of white pepper, citrus, and a pleasant vegetal character (described as everything from lentil to tinned asparagus) and often notes of white peach and honey.

This wine, from gravelly vineyards, is on the crisp side, but shows hints of pepper, honey, celery and stone fruit.  There is a lovely stony minerality and a long finish carried by the acidity and fruit.  It is a wine to try with grilled chicken, asparagus, white fish, and shellfish.  Drink now – 2010.

Friday and saturday afternoon tasting–This weekend: Lagrein and Muller Thurgau from Alto Adige in the foothills of the Dolomites in Northern Italy

Stop by this Friday evening from 4:30 to 7pm and Saturday afternoon for a free tasting of wines from the producers Muri Gries and Pacher Hof. Muri Gries’ Lagrein Riserva has been awarded 3 glasses from Gambero Rosso and is not to be missed. Pacher Hof is also a top quality wine producer making fresh aromatic Muller Thurgau. Stop by Friday or Saturday!

Time is 1-3 pm for David Raines tasting

Stop by between 1-3 pm on Saturday October 3 to taste small production Italian wines with David Raines of Vineyard Research.

Now Tasting Friday and Saturday September 18 and 19

Friday Night Wine Tasting/Pairing:

Stop by between 4:30 and 7PM this Friday Night to taste Unique European Wines.

This Week:

The single vineyard Dolcetto “Maioli”  from Anna Maria Abbona in Dogliani in the Langhe region of Piemonte (for those cool oncoming evenings when it’s you, a significant other or others, and some lamb chops.)

$25.99

The creation of a DOCG for Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore and/or Dogliani is not a brand new bag. Status was granted on July 6, 2005. It’s theoretically possible that the DOCG status could be applied to wines beginning immediately with the 2005 vintage.  Richer in fruit and softer in tannins than in the last few years, Abbona’s 2007 “Maioli,” produced from 70+ year-old vines in a vineyard of the same name, is inky, leggy and richly aromatic Dolcetto. A brooding aromatic character suggestive of elevation in old barrel backs up dark plum and ripe black cherry fruit; however, the wine is actually fermented and aged solely in steel. Blueberry skins and black pepper come out with air, along with a little more of Dolcetto’s typically inky aromatic scent. Still intensely primary, and showing an ever so slight touch of heat, this is definitely in need of a few more months before everything integrates. It’s already quite tasty though, and it well exhibits Dolcetto’s versatility at the table. I could see this pairing just as easily with a roasted bird or rich mushroom risotto as with grilled lamb chops.

Anna Maria Abbona talks her wine:

Even though attending an art school may apparently have nothing to do with my actual job, I must say that my studies didn’t prove completely useless, as I consider producing wine of quality a form of art. The sensibility acquired helps me very much in this work and with my husband I principally share a constant research of methods to produce higher quality wines.Together, during the past years, we have worked hardly and have also discussed about wine quality, cultivation techniques and vinification.Together we have attended refresher and tasting courses: together we work in the vineyard and in the wine cellar.We have done a great job, but yet have more projects for the future: the plant of a new vineyard and, maybe, a new grapevine species.The research of a higher quality product, during the years, is a result of a cooperation with other products of the Dogliani region. Coordinated by the Istituto Sperimentale di Enologia of Asti and by Dott. Di Stefano, we examine the vinification, the ageing and aeration of our top quality Dolcetto wines. Our development is a result of the cooperation with all wine producers of this region and we hope this will generate a development for the whole territory and its products too; we have a long way to go yet, but facing it together makes it easier for all of us.

And… you must taste a very small production Fiano di Avellino by Tenuta Ponte(26,000 btls.) of Luogosano, Campania

$17.99

the same producer of the Falanghina that we tasted three weeks ago. The Fiano is a richer, more intense wine that is more complex and ageworthy if you deem it necessary.  This wine is another import from David raines of Vineyard Research who will be pouring wines from his other producers here on Saturday, October 3rd.

Found chiefly in Campania, Fiano’s name supposedly derives from the Latin ‘vitis Apiana’ – meaning the vine of the bees – because the grapes were so sweet that the bees couldn’t resist them. Of course they couldn’t. Fiano is a vigorous vine that flourishes on the volcanic soils of Campania; it also grows on clay. The wines from it tend to be pale straw yellow and have elegant aromas – both fruity and floral with pleasant mineral hints that with age are enriched with resinous notes and honey flavors. On the palate they are dry, fine, savory, well-structured and balanced. Appreciable for their aromatic persistence, exalting the long sensations of peach and ripe pear, they can also be quite smoky.

We love exotic Southern Italian white wines, and the noblest of all Southern Italian varietals is undoubtedly the Fiano di Avellino. Bright green, lemon-gold in the glass, Tenuta Ponte’s Fiano di Avellino meshes smoky volcanic mineral notes with hints of white peach, lemon oil and green apples. Initially soft and plush on the palate with peach, star fruit and citrus notes, Tenuta Ponte’s Fiano di Avellino tightens mid-palate to show notes of freshly cut fennel, ample acidity and an impressive mineral spine. Long, brisk and simply delicious, the wine finishes clean and refreshing while establishing a new reference point for the noble Fiano grape. Try this distinctive, opulent, complex bianco over the next two years with shellfish, calamari, white-sauced pasta dishes and medium weight vegetarian casseroles.

Real Wines from David Raines of Vineyard Research– He will Pour on Saturday Afternoon, October 3

David Raines of Vineyard Research will pour some of his unique small production wines at a free tasting with Farfalle Italian Market on Saturday afternoon, October 3, 2009. Don’t miss tasting small production wines from such great areas as Barbaresco and Montalcino. These are wines from producers that are not household names. Raines is the owner and sole employee of his importing and distributing company, Vineyard Research out of Lunenburg MA. His motto is “Post-Industrial Wines” and it fits with the philosophy at Farfalle, and the wine buyer who also believes in the championing of small production European wines, that of course, are also great quality products that are the result of fastidious care in the vineyards and cellars of the producers Raines works with.  The wines are not ones that you will find everyday on the shelves of most wine and liquor stores, so stop by in Concord at Farfalle Italian Market in Concord MA for a free tasting.

Check out Raines in Boston Magazine last January:

http://www.bostonmagazine.com/articles/a_wine_less_ordinary/

Check out this link of one of Raines’ producers:

http://www.cadelbaio.com/en/home.html

Now Tasting: Weekend of September 12, 2009

Friday Night Wine Tasting/Pairing:

Stop by between 4:30 and 7PM this Friday Night to taste Unique European Wines.

This Week:

From Asti in Piemonte:

The handcrafted Barbera “Montecanta” from Noceto Michelotti of the village Castelboglione

$24.99

NOCETO MICHELOTTI, CUTTING-EDGE WINE ESTATE IN THE MONFERRATO HILLS

Noceto Michelotti is a model modern winery built in a fold of the hills, at the heart of an estate where the vineyards have been sculpted and improved to offer the best aspect and drainage in  these privileged sites. Once the grapes arrive at the winery, they are sorted, then washed and cleaned in a unique process which eliminates any toxic residue emanating from the soils. Winemaking is the best of what one could call evolved classic tradition: destemming of the grapes, gentle pressing, alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for up to three weeks depending on the particular grape and vintage character; the second ‘malolactic’ conversion, which makes the wine both softer and more complex, is done in small oak barrels.   The 2006 Montecante Barbera was a huge step forward for its beguiling aromas and for the precision, purity and elegance of flavors  - which has a lot to do with the excellence of the vintage and the little details like the washing and cleaning of the grapes.

MONTECANTA Barbera d’Asti Superiore is smooth, dry and full bodied and has been passionately created from the finest hand harvested and selected Barbera grapes. The grapes have been washed and dried in our unique grape washing and drying machine after final quality selection.

It has been fermented for 16 days in small temperature controlled stainless steel vats at a temperature not exceeding 24°C and then aged for a minimum of 12 months in small French oak barrels and then for a further minimum of 6 months in large French oak vats.

It has an intense and deep ruby red color. The bouquet is spicy with ripe black cherries, plums, wild red fruit and vanilla. On the palate it has balanced acidity, smooth tannins and an elegant long finish.

And from the Veneto:

Ca Rugate

“Monte Fiorentine”

Soave Classico

$29.99

Ca’ Rugate established by the Tessari family in 1986, takes its name from the volcanic hills where most of the vineyards are to be found. The Ca’ Rugate vineyards cover 40 hectares, 30 of which are located within the commune of Monteforte d’Alpone in the rugged heart of Soave Classico; and 10 hectares in the commune of Montecchia di Crosara in nearby Valpolicella. For many generations, these gentle sloping hills have been a cradle for high quality wines; due to the unique sunny microclimate and rich volcanic soil. Ca’ Rugate uses only indigenous grape varieties such as Garganega, and Trebbiano di Soave for white wines; and Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone for reds. In the vineyard, they use modern pruning techniques, along with careful canopy management and green pruning; while the latest vinification techniques bring out distinctive aromas and refined flavors in the wines.

The 50 hectares (about 111 acres) belonging to Ca’ Rugate are located in the municipality of Monteforte d’Alpone; in the Soave Classico area 30 hectares (74 acres) are planted and in Montecchia di Crosara in the Valpolicella area 20 hectares (37 acres)are planted. The good position of the slopes of these hills, in particular the microclimate and the special composition of the soil, always lend to making great wines.

The unmistakable perfumes and aromas of these wines come from the appreciation of  indigenous varieties like Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave for the white wines and Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone for the red wines, the viticulture methods of short pruning and thinning of grape bunches and the research of new training systems.

In the Soave Classico area the majority of the Estate’s vineyards are situated on the Rugate hills and are trained on the Veronese pergola system and on the Guyot system.

The principal variety is the Garganega, the grape used to make Soave Classico  (San Michele, Monte Alto, Bucciato) and the Recioto di Soave (La Perlata), a sweet wine produced after the drying out of the grapes on trellises.

On the slopes facing south the soil is basaltic. The area is vast and more or less homogeneous, characteristics that have made it possible to identify a small area of 6 hectares (about 15 acres) from which the ”cru” Monte Fiorentine originates.

The 15 hectares (37 acres) of vineyards in the Valpolicella area are in the Montecchia di Crosara municipality at 450 meters (1476 feet) above sea level, straddling a sweet slope that dominates the small Alpone and Tramign valleys.

Depending on the grape variety and how it will be vinified, the plant density is between 5,000 to 6,500 vines per hectare (2,000-2,600 vines per acre).

Lini Lambrusco on NBC Today show

Lini 1910, the family winery out of Emilia, Italy has made news on the screen this morning.  Their red and white lambrusco is of course available in our store for this weekend as it has been before the wild press coverage. Drink up! Here’s the clip:

Known alternatively as Wiengut Familie Nigl, or more recently as Weingut Martin Nigl, for its owner and winemaker, this 62 acre estate is one of the most respected in Austria’s Kremstal region. Named for the river Krems and the medieval town of the same name, whose school for viticulture has been going strong since 1875, the Kremstal boasts some of the country’s most dynamic temperature swings throughout the year. Scorching summers and bitter cold winters are said to lend a crystalline edge to the region’s wines. The Kremstal is known for producing some of the country’s best Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, with increasing amounts of Chardonnay.

One might say exactly the same thing about Weingut Nigl.

Martin Nigl is a man focused relentlessly on quality. From the way he kicks the rocks in his vineyards to his recent decision to cap all his wines with screwcaps, Nigl equally and effortlessly juggles traditional winemaking techniques and new technology. While he may have moved to modern closures, for instance, he still insists that every grape that goes into his wine is harvested by hand at the peak of ripeness. This can mean, at times, that his harvest takes six or seven weeks, as workers painstakingly tromp through the crushed granite soils to cull the ripe grapes from the vines.

After picking by hand, the grapes are vinified in stainless steel where they rest on their lees for a time after completing fermentation. After being racked off their sediments they are bottled with minimal fining and filtration. Nigl produces about 7500 cases of wine each year including four different single vineyard bottlings of Riesling including this Kremsleiten.

Joe Campanale and Lini Lambrusco onthe Today show!

Hot New York restaurateur pours Lambrusco on national television!

Joe Campanale selected Lini’s Lambrusco as one of his favorite wines for summer on NBC’sToday show this morning. In a live segment, theco-owner of Dell’Anima and L’Artusi pouredLini’s Labrusca Bianco and Rosso as part of a selection of his picks for Memorial Day weekend. 

In case you missed it,click here to watch the full clip!

One of New York’s youngest restaurateurs, the 25-year old Campanale’s star has risen spectacularly since he opened Dell’Anima in 2007 with Chef Gabe Thompson. The rapid success of the small West Village hotspot spurred the duo to expand to L’Artusi just one year later. Now, both restaurants are favorite neighborhood destinations for anyone seeking delicious and inventive Italian fare and an excellent selection of wine.

The growing popularity of Lini in New York in many ways mirrors Campanale’s recent success. Since Domenico Valentino’s introduction of Labrusca in 2007, Lini’s range of sparkling, classic Lambrusco has proven a universal hit throughout the city’s restaurant and wine industry, giving rebirth to a unique variety. Now, with an exciting line of refreshing and affordable wines, the Lini brand continues to gather momentum across the United States.

Campanale, whose wine experience extends to sommelier and retailer in some of New York’s most respected establishments, personally oversees the wine programs at Dell’Anima and L’Artusi. A huge fan of Lini and Lambrusco, he didn’t hesitate in adding Labrusca Bianco to both restaurants’ wine lists. Now Joe has helped introduce Lini’s Lambrusco to over two millionToday viewers nationwide!

Austrian Rose’ from two top producers

Rose’ is the red wine drinker’s white of Summer, but it is also more than just your average pink.  The market is flooded with cheap rose of every shade and hue. I try to find and market small production, estate bottled rose’ from places other then southern France, and that place takes me to the family estates of Weingut Prieler and Weigut Nigl of Burgenland and Kremstal Austria. These two producers make outstanding varietal wines such as Reisling and Gruner Veltliner, and they also produce reds from the grapes Balufrankisch and Zweigelt. These Rose’ versions are made with zvelt body, zippy acidity and a zing of minerals on the finish. This is cool climate rose’.  

Weingut Prieler

 

Family Prieler crowned Falstaff 2009 vintner of the year

One of the most prestigious awards in Austrian viniculture has this year gone to Burgenland: the Prieler family from Schützen am Gebirge has been voted “2009 vintner of the year” by Falstaff magazine. In their assessment, the judges spoke of “exceptional and very memorable wines”. Falstaff editor in chief Peter Moser: “We were extremely impressed by the Prieler family’s high standards in all wine categories and by their sensitive approach to the specific properties of the respective types of vine and the selection of just the right terroir.” 

 

For more than 20 years Engelbert Prieler fiddled, tested and tried to hear what nature had to say. Until he finally got what he wanted: a limited number of grape varieties, with each in the vineyard that was ideal for it. The Prielers have reduced the number of their varieties to the most significant. The whites are Welschriesling, Pinot blanc and Chardonnay. The reds are Blaufränkisch, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And in recent years Pinot Noir and St. Laurent as well, which Silvia Prieler newly planted despite many reservations. She has been rewarded with Burgundian fruitiness and fascinating finesse. The Prielers’ wines are always powerful with potential and presence on the palate. They encourage the wine aficionado to carefully consider them, try them again and still remain curious about the next ship. To achieve that goal, it takes a combination of old traditions, a gentle approach to nature and ultramodern cellar technology. Limiting output and using natural methods of cultivation in the vineyards, strict selection, careful harvesting: these are the prerequisites for obtaining the finest grapes. Fermentation in stainless-steel tanks or oak casks and patient ageing result in the appropriate finish. 

 

Rosé vom Stein 2007

$21.99

Vineyard: Schützner Stein – a steep and rocky hill (750 ft), which is also a protected wildlife area, is the source of this wine.

Grape variety: Blaufränkisch, Merlot

Vintage: 2007

Soil type: diverse soils including mica-slate, marine limestone, and loamy sand with pebbles

Cultivation: cover crops and integrated plant protection

Harvest: manual selection, end of september

Production: temperature-controlled fermentation and maturation in stainless steel

Alcohol: 13 % vol.

Acidity: 5,9 g/l

Residual sugar: trocken

Tasting Note: pale salmon colour, refreshing fragrance of berries and blossoms; crisp, spicy and juicy on the palate. An easy-drinking wine for hot summer days. 

 

 

Weingut Nigl

Zweigelt Rose’

$19.99

 

    No one would deny this estate’s inclusion among the absolute elite in Austria, and many observers wonder if there’s anyone finer. Extraordinarily transparent, filigree, crystalline, mineral-drenched wines of mindboggling clarity. Prices remarkably sane for world-class great Rieslings (compare to the best in Alsace!)

•Vineyard area: 25 hectares

•Annual production: 7,500 cases

•Top sites: Piri, Hochäcker, Goldberg

•Soil types: Mica slate, slate and loess

•Grape varieties: 40% Riesling, 40% Grüner Veltliner, 4% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Weissburgunder, 10% Chardonnay, 2% other varieties

Known alternatively as Wiengut Familie Nigl, or more recently as Weingut Martin Nigl, for its owner and winemaker, this 62 acre estate is one of the most respected in Austria’s Kremstal region. Named for the river Krems and the medieval town of the same name, whose school for viticulture has been going strong since 1875, the Kremstal boasts some of the country’s most dynamic temperature swings throughout the year. Scorching summers and bitter cold winters are said to lend a crystalline edge to the region’s wines. The Kremstal is known for producing some of the country’s best Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, with increasing amounts of Chardonnay. One might say exactly the same thing about Weingut Nigl. Martin Nigl is a man focused relentlessly on quality. From the way he kicks the rocks in his vineyards to his recent decision to cap all his wines with screwcaps, Nigl equally and effortlessly juggles traditional winemaking techniques and new technology. While he may have moved to modern closures, for instance, he still insists that every grape that goes into his wine is harvested by hand at the peak of ripeness. This can mean, at times, that his harvest takes six or seven weeks, as workers painstakingly tromp through the crushed granite soils to cull the ripe grapes from the vines. After picking by hand, the grapes are vinified in stainless steel where they rest on their lees for a time after completing fermentation. After being racked off their sediments they are bottled with minimal fining and filtration. .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Family Prieler crowned Falstaff 2009 vintner of the year

One of the most prestigious awards in Austrian viniculture has this year gone to Burgenland: the Prieler family from Schützen am Gebirge has been voted “2009 vintner of the year” by Falstaff magazine. In their assessment, the judges spoke of “exceptional and very memorable wines”. Falstaff editor in chief Peter Moser: “We were extremely impressed by the Prieler family’s high standards in all wine categories and by their sensitive approach to the specific properties of the respective types of vine and the selection of just the right terroir.”